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FOOD & DRINK
Mountain View News SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 12, 2026
YES, PASTRAMIAND THICKNESS
MATTERS
National Hot Pastrami Sandwich Day isn’t until January 14, but
my legion of pastrami lovers couldn’t wait that long.
Recently, I asked my social media followers a simple question:
who has the better pastrami, The Original Tops On Allen or The
Hat? The response was overwhelming. Apparently, Pasadena
residents may disagree about politics, parking and whether it is
ever going to rain, but nothing gets them talking faster than a
pile of hot pastrami on a French roll.
Before choosing a winner, let’s answer the first question: what
exactly is pastrami?
Pastrami traces its roots to Romania and Eastern Europe, where curing and seasoning meat
was a way to preserve it before refrigeration. Jewish immigrants brought that tradition to
America during the late 1800s. In New York, beef became the meat of choice. It was brined,
rubbed with spices—usually including black pepper, coriander and garlic—then smoked and
steamed until tender.
That brings us to another question: why is pastrami usually sliced so thin?
The thin cut makes tougher beef easier to chew and lets the warm fat and seasoning spread
throughout the sandwich. Thin slices can also be piled high without turning lunch into a
wrestling match. They absorb a little juice, fold over one another and give you pastrami in
almost every bite.
Thickness matters. Slice it too thick and pastrami can become chewy. Slice it paper-thin and
you may lose some of its personality. The best sandwich lands somewhere in the middle: thin
enough to be tender, but thick enough that you still know you are eating beef.
Of course, Los Angeles pastrami is different from traditional New York deli pastrami. In New
York, it usually arrives stacked on rye bread with mustard. Around here, we are more likely to
get thinly sliced pastrami on a French roll, often dipped in its own juices. It is less deli counter
and more roadside sandwich stand—and I mean that as a compliment.
I have heard the rumor circulating that Tops and The Hat receive their pastrami from the
same source. I have found nothing that confirms that, so I am not going to serve speculation
as fact. Even if two restaurants purchased meat from the same distributor, that would not
make their sandwiches identical. The specifications, seasoning, cooking, slicing, holding
temperature and bread can all change the final product.
And yes, the bread is very important.
You can have excellent pastrami, but if the roll falls apart halfway through lunch, the sandwich
has failed its most basic assignment. The bread must be soft enough to bite through, sturdy
enough to hold the meat and able to absorb just enough juice without becoming a sponge.
Mustard adds the necessary sharpness, and a pickle on the side helps cut through the richness.
The Hat opened its original Alhambra stand in 1951 and built its reputation around the
Pastrami Dip. The portions are generous, the service is fast and the sandwich arrives with
that unmistakable Southern California aroma.
The Original Tops has its own loyal following. Its pastrami sandwich is served on a toasted
French roll with mustard and pickles. Tops fans are every bit as passionate as Hat fans, and
neither side appears ready to surrender.
Then there is Lucky Boy. Many Pasadena locals swear by its pastrami. I remember heading
there after football games, when nobody was discussing curing methods or the ideal thickness
of the meat. We were hungry, it was local and it tasted great. Sometimes a food memory is
every bit as important as the recipe.
My friend Curt at So Cal Tickets on Hill doesn’t even treat this as a debate. Curt states it as
established fact: Langer’s makes the best pastrami. No vote, no discussion and apparently no
appeals process. I respect his confidence, but Langer’s is still a drive from Pasadena—and I’m
not sure Curt is paying for my gas.
Yes, you can drive outside Pasadena for Johnnie’s, Brent’s or Langer’s. All three have devoted
fans, and Langer’s has earned national attention. But you will probably spend more—and the
gasoline alone should be added to the price of the sandwich.
That is why I keep coming back to our local favorites. The Hat, Tops and Lucky Boy have kept
pastrami within reach. You can get a filling sandwich without turning lunch into a major
financial decision.
So who makes Pasadena’s best pastrami? Try them, compare the cut, check the bread and
notice whether the sandwich holds together until the final bite.
As always, if I missed your favorite, don’t call City Hall—just email me.
Stay local. Eat local. And please pass the mustard.
By Peter Dills
A vintage advertisement for a restaurant in San Marino, California.
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