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FOOD AND DRINK
Mountain Views-News Saturday, October 4, 2014
We all know restaurant locations throughout Sierra Madre and Pasadena that seem to turn over every
fall. I have heard the word “cursed” used for several locations many times. For instance, the location
on the corner of San Gabriel and Colorado seems to be one that is cursed for sure – it started as the
Vault, then it became Rio Rio, then Ta Vu, and then a sushi joint (which I actually loved because the
prices were right). Now I understand it will be a chicken wing restaurant. Well, I love wings so let’s see
what happens. For another “cursed” location, remember Jerry’s Famous Deli in Old Pasadena? Let’s
name all the restaurants that went through that location: Union Cattle Company, Pasadena Brewing,
Brix, Haven Gastro Pub… and it started as a gym!
When interviewing existing owners, they often point
the fingers at the landlords saying the rents are too
high. The excitement and the confidence of “I’ll do it
better” might be too strong of a lure for restaurateurs
to handle. I was bewildered that El Chollo moved
from Fair Oaks (Old John Bull) to the Paseo. As the
building sat empty for a few years, I thought isn’t
some rent better then no rent at all? Celebrity Chef
Rocco said on his TV show that the mortality rate for
restaurants is 90% the first year. My father said he’d
rather have open heart surgery than own a restaurant.
Let’s look at this fact: the survival rate is
higher then 10%, and these numbers are
not specific to our area. Several years
ago, researchers at Cornell University
and Michigan State University
conducted a study of restaurants in
three local markets over a 10-year
period. They concluded the following:
after the first year, 27% of restaurant
startups failed; after three years, 50%
of those restaurants were no longer in
business; and after five years 60% had
gone south. At the end of 10 years, 70%
of the restaurants that had opened for
business a decade before had failed.
Those are far different numbers than
the 90% first-year failure rate quoted
by our television star chef. Another
academic research study concluded
that 81.4% of all small business failures
result from forces within the control of
the owners/managers. The bottom line
is that even if the failure rate is a little
daunting, failure is not inevitable.
Join me on Dining w/Dills, the radio
version, right before the Angels game
at 2 PM KLAA AM 830 Sunday
SLOW COOKER LEMON
GARLIC CHICKEN
TABLE FOR TWO by Peter Dills
thechefknows@yahoo.com
INGREDIENTS
4 to 5 pound chicken
For the seasoning rub:
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 teaspoon salt
2 sprigs thyme, leaves stripped and minced
For the cooking liquid:
2 lemons, quartered
1 head garlic, cloves separated, but left in their skins
2 chicken bouillon cubes or 1 teaspoon bouillon paste, divided (optional for richer flavor)
2 sprigs thyme
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1/4 cup chicken broth
2 sprigs rosemary
For the gravy:
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
DIRECTIONS:
Remove the bag of gizzards and discard (or reserve for stock). Pat the chicken dry with paper
towels.
Mix all the seasoning ingredients together in a bowl. Gently work your fingers under the skin
covering the breast meat and slide them back and forth to separate the skin from the meat without
tearing it. Scoop up a dollop of the seasoning and work it under the skin covering both breasts. Rub
any remaining seasoning over the drumsticks and thighs. Transfer the chicken to the slow cooker,
breast-side up.
Squeeze and reserve the juice from one of the lemons. Stuff the rinds into the cavity of the chicken
along with one whole bouillon cube and a few garlic cloves. Crumble the other bouillon cube over
the chicken and rub it into the skin. Arrange the remaining lemon quarters, the rest of garlic cloves,
and the thyme around the chicken. Combine the reserved lemon juice, the soy sauce, and the broth,
and pour it over the chicken.
Place the lid on the slow cooker and cook on high heat for 4 or for 6 hours (according to your slow-
cooker's instructions and particular settings). Thirty minutes or so before the time is done, add the
rosemary sprigs.
Remove chicken from the slow-cooker and allow it to rest on a baking sheet, tented with foil, for
about 20 minutes. The wings and drumsticks may fall away as you lift the chicken; this is normal.
While the chicken is resting, strain the cooking liquid into a sauce pan and bring to a rapid simmer.
Scoop out a half cup of the liquid and whisk it with the flour in a separate bowl. Slowly pour the
flour slurry back into the cooking liquid while whisking. Continue simmering and whisking until
the gravy thickens. Taste and add salt and pepper as desired.
When ready to serve, remove the skin from the chicken and discard. Use your fingers to pull the
meat away off the bones; it should come away easily with gentle pressure or use a knife as needed.
Serve the breasts, thighs, and drumsticks right away and tear the remaining meat into shreds for
using in leftovers. Serve with the gravy alongside.
Notes:
• Rosemary tends to get bitter if cooked for too long. Adding it in the last half hour of cooking helps
give the dish rosemary flavor without the bitterness.
• The garlic cloves cooked with the chicken make an excellent spread. Pop them out of their skins,
mash with a bit of salt, and serve with slices of crusty bread.
Mountain Views News 80 W Sierra Madre Blvd. No. 327 Sierra Madre, Ca. 91024 Office: 626.355.2737 Fax: 626.609.3285 Email: editor@mtnviewsnews.com Website: www.mtnviewsnews.com
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