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FOOD - DRINK - FUN
Mountain View News Saturday, October 25, 2025
A WORD FROM SIERRA MADRE POLICE DEPT.
We’re cheering on our Boys in Blue to bring home another trophy! But remember, the best
way to celebrate is safely. Don’t drink and drive, and keep your focus on the road (not the
game!). Let’s get home safe to celebrate together. Let’s go Dodgers!
GUS’S BBQ — VERY GOOD FOOD, BUT LET’S NOT
CALL IT BBQ
By Peter Dills, L.A.’s King of Cuisine
For decades, Gus’s BBQ on Fair Oaks has been a South Pasadena landmark — the kind of
place generations of locals return to for familiar comfort and solid food. About ten years
ago (maybe longer) , the Bicos Brothers — yes, the same family behind Tops on Michillinda
— took the reins and kept the tradition alive, polishing the edges while preserving the
neighborhood feel.
We grabbed seats at the bar — comfortable ones, I might add, as another reviewer correctly
pointed out — and enjoyed friendly, attentive service from a staff that clearly takes pride in
what they do.
Now, having just returned from North Carolina, I need to clarify something about the term
BBQ. In the Carolinas, barbecue is not a menu item; it’s a way of life. You can smell it before
you see it. Real BBQ means smoke — wood, time, and patience. If a restaurant doesn’t have
smoke coming out of it within a 24-hour window, it’s not true barbecue. That doesn’t mean
the food isn’t good, but words matter.
By that standard, Gus’s doesn’t quite qualify. There’s no lingering aroma of oak or hickory in
the air, and that signature smoke ring on the ribs and brisket is more subtle than defining. But
the food itself? Very good. The pulled-pork nachos were the surprise of the night — hearty,
balanced, and a solid B+. The eight-bone Memphis baby backs scored a B, and the Texas
prime brisket also came in at B. Flavorful, tender, but lacking that final smoky punctuation
that separates the great from the good.
Every review of mine includes a quibble, and here it is: the fries. Good, not great. If the
kitchen swapped to Russet or Kennebec potatoes, they’d go from side dish to star. Sometimes
the smallest detail turns “good” into “wow.”
To their credit, the Gus’s website doesn’t overpromise. It proudly calls the menu Southern
cooking, which is a more accurate label. From the cornbread to the mac and cheese, the food
speaks for itself — hearty, satisfying, and delivered with genuine hospitality.
IN SUMMARY:
Gus’s may not be BBQ in the truest Southern sense, but it’s still one of South Pasadena’s most
dependable restaurants — warm, lively, and delicious. Just don’t expect A’s. Those are hard to
come by from this critic.
Your thoughts? Email me at thechefknows@yahoo.com listen to my podcast
For additional information www.gussbbq.com
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Mountain Views News 80 W Sierra Madre Blvd. No. 327 Sierra Madre, Ca. 91024 Office: 626.355.2737 Fax: 626.609.3285 Email: editor@mtnviewsnews.com Website: www.mtnviewsnews.com
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