Mountain Views News          Saturday, April 2, 2011

8

GOOD FOOD & DRINK

 Mountain Views News Saturday, April 2, 2011 

COFFEE: HEALTHFUL OR DETRIMENTAL? by Christopher Nyerges

Occasionally you’ll hear this in any of the coffee 
shops in Sierra Madre: "But isn't coffee bad for my 
health?" 

Much has been said and written about the benefits 
vs. the detrimental effects of coffee. But what is the 
"bottom line"? Are there beneficial qualities? Does 
it harm me? Should it be abstained from? Is it OK 
to drink coffee in moderation?

These and similar questions are not easily answered 
because, in the tests and statistical data, 
researchers and doctors do not use -- or attempt 
to define -- a consistent standard for what is meant 
by "coffee." 

Coffee has also been accused of causing, or contributing 
to, cancer, heart diseases, hypertension, 
hepatitis, and cirrhosis of the liver. Dr. John Timson 
of the University of Manchester in England, 
while admitting that coffee is mildly addictive, 
states that, at present, there is no hard scientific 
evidence that links the use of coffee to any of the 
above-mentioned diseases.

Unfortunately, in virtually all studies done on the 
health effects of coffee, researchers indiscriminately 
lump all "coffees" together. But no two cups 
of coffee are alike. And it is not likely that any 
standard will ever be established for coffee research. 
Why? Because brewed coffee contains not 
only caffeine, but various acids, oils, and alcohols, 
the qualities of which vary depending on the way 
the coffee beans are handled from farm to cup.

According to Dr. Neil Solomon, "Caffeine is a 
strong stimulant with drug-like properties and is 
considered to have an unfavorable effect on nutrient 
absorption."

The FDA (Food and Drug Administration) has 
placed caffeine on their Generally-Recognized-
As-Safe list. Caffeine acts as a stimulant to the 
central nervous system. If used in excess, it contributes 
to nervousness, irritability, sleeplessness, 
anxiety, and heart palpitations.

FACTORS AFFECTING THE QUALITY OF 
"COFFEE"

According to Timothy Hall, a former teacher with 
the L.A. Unified School District who has given 
numerous lectures on coffee, there are at least 30 
factors which affect the beverage called "a cup of 
coffee," all of which must be taken into account if 
one is to draw a useful conclusion about coffee's 
"good" or "bad" effects.

Timothy Hall has shared his research during one 
of the monthly Plenary sessions of WTI in Highland 
Park. According to Timothy Hall, one cannot 
answer "Is coffee good for me?" until one has 
explored the following questions. In some cases, 
definitive answers to the following may be hard to 
come by, if not next to impossible. Some factors, 
however, are completely within our control.

THE PLANT

What is the type or variety of coffee plant? Of 
the two primary types of coffee -- arabica and 
robusta -- arabica is considered the better of the 
two. Where and how was it grown? How was it 
fertilized?

The elevation, quality of soil, and the amount of 
water received during growing all affect the quality 
of the fruit. This is why coffee connoisseurs 
have individual preferences regarding the country 
of origin. 

What was the quality of care in picking, cleaning, 
and storing the beans?

ROASTING

What was the method of roasting? The depth of 
darkness of the brown in coffee color is due to the 
proportion of cresylic acid (cresol) present after 
the beans have been roasted. The darker the roast, 
the greater the tar content.

GRINDING

What was the grinding procedure? How hot did 
the beans get during the grinding process? Though 
not everyone will notice the difference, any grinder 
which grinds at a high temperature can result in 
the loss of aromatic oils. One solution is to grind 
with a hand mill. Another solution (when using 
an electric mill) is to only grind enough for a few 
cups at a time, since prolonged grinding may result 
in excessive heat. How much time elapsed between 
grinding and brewing? Remember: if you 
smell it, you're losing it. If you don't plan to use 
your grinds immediately, then put them in a covered 
container and place in the refrigerator.

WATER

How much coffee grounds are used in relation to 
water? Obviously, a cup of coffee made with one 
scoop of grounds is vastly different than one made 
with 6 scoops of grounds. What is the quality of 
the water? (After all, the primary constituent of "a 
cup of coffee" is water.)

TEMPERATURE

Fusel oil, released into the water whenever coffee 
grounds are boiled, causes bitterness; however, fusel 
oil is NOT released into water at less than boiling 
temperatures.

CLEANLINESS

What was the level of cleanliness of the coffee 
maker? Old coffee stains are a combination of 
"dirt" and oxidized insoluble fats. When fat oxidizes, 
it becomes rancid. Rancid fat "flavors" all 
coffee that is brewed in coffee pots that have not 
been scrubbed spotless.

PREPARATION

What type of coffee maker was used (vacuum, 
drip, percolator)? (Space doesn't permit us to review 
every coffee-maker on the market however, 
so let the buyer beware.)

Did I brew the grounds using the percolation, infusion, 
or decoction method? Infusion refers to adding 
the grounds to the water and letting them steep. 
A camper might do this. Decoction refers to actually 
cooking the grounds -- even boiling -- to make 
a strong brew. Though this might be acceptable 
in a prison 
camp when 
one is trying 
to extend 
the 
available 
grounds as 
far as possible, 
it is the 
least desirable 
choice. 
Percolation 
-- pouring the hot water through the grounds -- is 
the best option.

What type of materials did I use in the making 
of the beverage? Stainless steel, glass, aluminum, 
porcelain, and plastic all affect the quality (and the 
flavor) of the finished product.

ADDITIVES

What have I added to the finished product? Sugar? 
Salt? Egg? Vanilla? Cinnamon? Chocolate? Honey? 
Sweet-'n-Low? Saccharin? Cream? Milk? Powdered 
milk? Half and half? Cloves? Cardamon? 
Coffee-mate? Brandy? 

INSTANT COFFEE Was the coffee instant?

Instants are made two ways: spray dry or freeze 
dry. Both are begun as a very concentrated brew 
made with coffee grounds and superheated water. 
In the spray dry method, the concentrated brew 
is sprayed into a chamber where hot, dry air is 
pumped. The air removed the moisture, leaving 
bubble-shaped particles behind; the particles 
are then ground into powder. In the freeze-dry 
method, the concentrated brew is first frozen, and 
is then introduced into a vacuum chamber which 
removed the moisture, leaving a solid mass; the 
mass is then reduced to granules.

Instants vary due to the varying strengths of the 
initial concentrated brew, and differences in drying 
methods (temperature, etc.). Though the 
quality of instants may vary, most coffee-lovers 
will only drink instant when the circumstances 
dictate simplicity, or if nothing else is available. A 
detailed comparison of the quality of instant coffees 
was done by Consumer Reports magazine, a 
copy of which may be obtained by writing to the 
magazine.

DECAFFEINATED

Is the coffee decaffeinated? The chemical formerly 
used to remove the caffeine was trichloroethylene 
(found to cause liver cancer in laboratory mice). 
Currently, methylene chloride is used, a chemical 
under study by the National Cancer Institute. A 
non-chemical method of decaffeination that has 
been gaining is popularity is the steam method. 

THINKING

Of the factors under our control, the quality of our 
thinking (as we brew the coffee) has a direct effect 
on the finished product. Also, the way in which 
we drink the beverage has an effect (i.e., slow 
thoughtful sips vs. hurried gulps).

Hall asserts that in his tests, the quality of one's 
thinking has proven to be the most important factor. 
States Hall, "If you brew your coffee with precise 
intent, you can alchemically transmute those 
common grounds into a veritable elixir."

AN EXPERIMENT IN ALCHEMY

Here are a few guidelines if you'd like to begin alchemically 
changing "a cuppa coffee" to "wonderful 
elixir." This is the procedure that was shared 
with us by Timothy Hall, who learned of this via 
his association with Revve Weisz and WTI Inc. in 
1976.

Begin with meticulously clean utensils. Stainless 
steel, French porcelain, glass, or copper are preferred; 
softer metals (e.g., aluminum) should not 
be used.

First, measure the needed amount of water (spring 
water is better than the chlorine and fluoride-laden 
city tap water) and set on the stove to boil.

Next, prepare your filter. An ideal filter is a simple 
cloth bag sewed into a cone, using the densest cotton 
flannel. These are reusable indefinitely -- far 
superior to commercial paper filters. The bag is 
suspended over your cup, or a second pot; the 
coffee grounds are measured into the bag (a fine 
grind works best).

Another ideal system is a French ceramic pot with 
a ceramic cone that fits into the top, and a gold-
plated reusable filter. You measure your grounds 
into the filter.

When the water has boiled, stand squarely and 
strongly on both legs; breathe deeply; then, slowly 
pour the water in a clockwise circular motion over 
the grounds. While pouring, visualize and fell the 
energy of Love flowing from your heart, down 
your arm, and into the beverage. We call this "chi," 
and much has been written about this "chi" energy 
in books on Chinese healing and martial arts. You 
may need to "imagine" the feeling at first, but with 
practice you will find it easy. It sometimes feels 
like a mild electric shock.

If you wish to add anything to the resultant beverage, 
try raw honey and raw cream. 

One of the main problems with extensive coffee 
ingestion is that it either removes or destroys the 
B-vitamins from the body, resulting in a slowly cumulative 
degeneration of the sheaths of the body's 
nerve fibres. This is what causes the "nervousness" 
with heavy coffee-drinkers. Honey, cream, and 
B-vitamins added to the diet, help to offset any 
harmful effects.

When the above process is done thoughtfully and 
lovingly, the process is somewhat analogous to 
the Japanese tea ceremony. And it CAN result in 
a truly fine elixir.

So is coffee "good" or "bad"? As always, it depends 
on the way you interact with it. 

CAFÉ 322 - HOT PASTA AND COOL ITALIAN TUNES


When you think about Italian’s a single word comes to mind, Passion. Mix an Italian love 
for music and a couple chefs that seem to still breathe the Italian air and you have Café 322.

It is the kind of neighborhood restaurant that makes want to embrace the world and glad 
that the world has embraces Sierra Madre. Owned and operated by Mario Lalli. The fifty 
years of restaurant experience the Lalli family have navigated are showcased nightly at Café 
322.

Mario Jr. is habitually at the restaurant and that impresses and awes this restaurant critic. 
There is no substitute for personally skipper a restaurant. Too many restaurants fail because 
the owner leaves the day-to-day details to others. Come to think of it, I really can’t remember 
a time when I visited Café 322 that Mario wasn’t tending bar or setting up the stage for 
that nights performance. The music goes live every Thursday Through Sunday Night. Pick 
a generation, choose a genre and you will find it here: Jazz, Pop, and even Opera on Sunday 
Nights.

Like most Italians the food is customer friendly and the prices are perfect. Mario tells me 
that keeping the prices in the ($15) to ($25) range have 
been the real key to the success of the restaurant. Portions 
are just ample and well crafted. For this review I invited my 
friends the Lorenzini’s from Kinneloa Canyon to help me 
give Café 322 a couple more critics. Our toes were tapping 
as we sojourned in a delightful meal. We commenced with 
warm house-made bread that we doused with oil and balsamic 
vinegar. Which lead us all to the wedge house salad 
($7.95). I emphasis house salad because all of the dressings 
are made in the kitchen at the restaurant. After toasting 
with a bottle of the St. Superey ($30) Sauvignon Blanc, we 
got down to dinner. It seemed everyone was ringing the 
bell for steak but I. 

Now I wrote a few weeks ago that I felt Nikki C’s had the 
best Cioppino in town, but at ($14) this is a closing second 
with an ocean of mussels, shrimp, clams and scallops 
brimming in the bowl. My steak loving friends ordered the 
New York Steak ($21.95), Rib Eye ($23.95), and a Prime 
Top Sirloin at ($16.95). All entrees come with spinach and 
mashed potatoes. If you’d like to skip the wedge, you can 
order a Caesar for ($3) extra. Try getting that at Morton’s. Yes, It’s Italian so if you are in the 
mood for pizza, pasta, salads or even a burger for the kids they have cadre to choose from.

If you live in the area and want to sooth the soul with a few tunes and warm the heart old 
country recipes, I recommend Café 322. Family friendly until 9 PM and then the adults take 
over. A true Sierra Madre Treasure. Café 322 is at 322 Sierra Madre Blvd. 626) 836-5414 
www.cafe322.com for all other details, closed on Mondays Please join me on Charter Cable 
on Sunday Nights at 7PM Channel 101

TABLE FOR TWO by Peter Dills


Happy EasterCelebrate Easter in the perfect cup of tea. 
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SierraMadre,CAFormoreinformationpleasecall626.355.2335or626.355.8333*proceedstofundPaulMagarismini-grantprogramsandotherchartableactivities
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