Mountain Views News          Saturday, March 31, 2012

9

GOOD FOOD & DRINK

 Mountain Views News Saturday, March 31, 2012 

Sushi On Green. 
MATSURI

Sushi honorable enough for a samurai warrior to defend. 

If you are familiar with a corner restaurant on Green and Wilson, you know that Matsuri is 
the Emperor of Sushi. When you walk through their doors you are stepping off a train in the 
heart of Tokyo. Imagine the energy of a great city where the places of dining are venerated 
as shrines and not an indifferent meal sitting. The playful name of Matsuri means, Japanese 
Festival, and the conscious hope of the name speaks to the good-natured belief that all great 
parties include dazzling food and trusted friends. 


I brought along a trusted friend on this trip to Matsuri, Sean Lorenzini. He hunts sushi 
the way Melville’s Ahab hounded the depths for 
whales, Sean being much in the same mold as myself, 
perennially found about the world and appearing fated 
to wander from one dining table to the next. Besides, 
if I was to play the part of Starbuck I need a strong 
captain for this voyage. 


Once seated we started with the Red Snapper 
Carpaccio ($14.50). It is an item that you may not 
find that frequently. We shared the dish, he on one 
side and I on the other, and we both agreed it was a 
savory sendoff. More of an appetizer than a meal, so we 
both yearned for our next plate and before I could say 
superfrignexbealladosciuos, the next dish 
magically appeared. “She’s Spicy Hot,” yes 
you read it right, this spicy tuna appetizer 
laid out on a shisho leaf is scintillating. Actually it’s Shiso Hot, but a little writer’s exaggeration 
never hurt.

There is one inescapable thing that all great sushi must possess, freshness. That is the 
fundamental element in any great Sushi restaurant and they ensure it at Matsuri. Papa San 
motors to the LA Fish Market at least five times a week to buy 
fish for the restaurant. Improbable, impossible, unimaginable 
you say, not to be found in this day and age! Pride drives that 
man to honor his guests. The delivery truck may sling fish at 
other restaurants but the emperor of sushi walks the docks as 
the fish is delivered and turns his keen eye to the best catch 
of the day. The gas is on me Papa San, put the pedal to the 
metal. I didn’t get the names, as I was offered only, Momma 
San, Papa San and Son of San. But I did meet John Hunter, 
recently retired from JPL, and the “Official Mayor” of Matsuri. 
John visits the sushi bar at least three times a week and loves 
the daily specials. He is soft for an old reliable, the Live Scallops 
and Sea Urchin, and orders them whenever available. 

The entrees were fantastic, I always order a Spicy Tuna Hand 
Roll. I even convinced Ahab; of course he ordered the rice 
paper, while I got the traditional seaweed wrap. 


Sake and Beer are available, I do recommend sitting at the Sushi Bar if seats are available. 

It appears in this story that Ahab survives with a smile. 


Matsuri 1050 E. Green St. Pasadena (626) 844-2900

Please listen to my talk show on 790 AM KABC Sunday at 8 PM.


Slow-Cooked Lamb 
with Sage and Pearl 
Barley


INGREDIENTS

1 shoulder of young lamb 

4 carrots 

2 stalks of celery 

4 red onions 

4 splashes olive oil 

3 squashed garlic cloves 

12 sage leaves 

8 peppercorns 

1 1/4 cups red wine 

1 1/4 cups chicken stock 

3/4 cup of pearl barley 

salt 

12 fresh almonds 

freshly ground black pepper 


DIRECTIONS

Trim the fat from 1 shoulder of young lamb. Peel, wash, 
and thinly slice 4 carrots and 2 stalks of celery. Peel 4 
red onions and cut into small wedges. 

Cook the shoulder of lamb

Preheat the oven to 300°F. Heat a flameproof casserole 
dish with a splash of olive oil and brown the shoulder 
on all sides. Take it out, throw away the cooking fat, 
wipe the casserole dish clean, and put it back on the 
heat with an additional splash of olive oil. 

Put in half the vegetables and sweat for 2 to 3 minutes, 
stirring. Add 3 squashed garlic cloves, 12 sage leaves, 
and 8 peppercorns, mix well, and return the shoulder 
of lamb to the casserole dish. 

Pour in 1 1/4 cups of red wine and reduce by half. Then 
add 1 1/4 cups of chicken stock, cover the casserole 
dish with a lid, and put in the oven for 2 1/2 hours, 
basting the shoulder from time to time. 

Take out the casserole dish. Remove the shoulder, wrap 
it in aluminium foil, and keep warm. Keep the casserole 
dish on hand. 

Prepare the pearl barley

Shortly before the end of cooking the lamb, put 3/4 cup 
of pearl barley to soak for 10 minutes. 

Heat another casserole dish with a splash of olive oil, 
put in the rest of the vegetables, and cook for 2 minutes, 
stirring. Drain the pearl barley and add to the 
vegetables. Stir, season with salt, and cook for 1 to 2 
minutes. 

Take a ladleful of the cooking liquid from the lamb 
casserole dish and pour it into the barley casserole 
dish. Let it swell with the liquid and cook for 15 to 18 
minutes, adding more of the liquid as and when it is 
absorbed. 

Peel 12 fresh almonds and add them at the end of 
cooking with a splash of olive oil. Stir and check the 
seasoning. 

To finish your dish

Cut the shoulder into large pieces and return them to 
their casserole dish. Add the contents of the other casserole 
dish and a generous twist of freshly ground black 
pepper and serve in the casserole dish. 

TABLE FOR TWO by Peter Dills

thechefknows@yahoo.com


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