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FOOD - DRINK - FUN

Mountain Views News Saturday, August 30, 2025


CLEARMAN’S NORTH WOODS INN – SAN GABRIEL

By Peter Dills, L.A.’s King of Cuisine

I know many of you have been to Clearman’s North Woods Inn. And if you have, you already 
know the garlic cheese bread is worth the drive on its own. But for those who haven’t, 
here you go — this is a steakhouse that hasn’t changed much in decades, and that’s exactly 
why it still works.

Walking Into the Lodge

From the outside, North Woods Inn looks like Paul Bunyan decided to open a restaurant 
in San Gabriel: log-cabin walls, fake snow on the roof, and a building that feels more Lake 
Tahoe than Los Angeles County. Step inside, and it’s dark wood beams, stained glass windows, 
chandeliers, and paintings that haven’t budged since Eisenhower. And yes, the peanut 
shells on the floor are still part of the fun. You can call it dated if you like — I call it classic.

A Bit of History

Back in 1958, John Clearman opened his first North Woods Inn in Monrovia. His idea was 
sim-ple: good food, big portions, a place where families could gather. When the 210 Freeway 
came through in ’66, the restaurant moved to its current San Gabriel home.

Over the years, the Clearman’s name grew to include the Steak ’n’ Stein and The Galley (better 
known as “The Boat,” right 
next door). But it’s this North 
Woods Inn that became the 
real insti-tution. And here’s the 
smartest thing they ever did: 
they didn’t change much.

My Visit

On this night, I had Hansalicious 
with me — my steady 
dining companion. San Gabriel’s 
Vice Mayor, Eric Chan, 
was supposed to join us but 
turned into a no-show. His 
punishment? No cheese bread. 
Our other guest, Ronson, 
was a tad late because he was 
holding court next door. He’s 
the unoffi-cial “Mayor of The 
Boat,” Clearman’s other classic. 
If you’ve been to The Boat, 
you already know he’s part of 
the atmosphere there. Between 
North Woods and The Boat, 
the Clearman family has this 
corner of Rosemead locked 
down.

We all started with the jumbo 
cocktail shrimp. And they 
mean jumbo — these things 
were practi-cally lobster tails, 
meaty and ice-cold. Hans went with the sirloin burger, piled high and juicy. He gave it his 
usual one-word review — “delicious” — and he wasn’t wrong.

I went classic: the bone-in ribeye. Cooked to perfection, tender and flavorful — exactly 
what you want from a steakhouse that prides itself on tradition. We shared all entrées, and 
Ronson had the honors of the first cut.

And yes, the cheese bread disappeared fast. Hot, buttery, garlicky — it stacks up against 
any-thing you’ll find at the bigger-name steakhouses in town. Same with the salad. Simple, 
crisp, oversized, and just plain good.

The Service

Our server, Rheana, got it right — friendly, professional, and never over the top.

Manager Christine was working the room the way managers used to, what my dad called 
“table touching.” Going from table to table, checking in with diners. It’s old-school, and it 
still makes a difference. Christine also tipped me off about the blackened salmon — a smart 
choice if you’re not in the mood for steak. And then there’s Dorothy behind the bar. Sharp, 
personable, and good enough to be getting an award soon. She’s proof that the bar here isn’t 
just an afterthought — it’s part of the draw.

Steakhouse Royalty

I’ve written about all the big names: Arroyo Chop House, Taylor’s, Edwards (now gone), 
Fleming’s. North Woods Inn belongs in that conversation. Maybe it’s not as polished, maybe 
it doesn’t scream “fine dining,” but it stacks up in the ways that matter: the food is consistent, 
the portions are huge, and you leave full. The décor hasn’t changed in decades, and 
the menu hasn’t either. That’s the smartest move they ever made. Why change something 
that works?

My Honest Take

Here’s the truth: North Woods Inn isn’t for everyone. If you’re looking for small plates, edible 
flowers, and servers who describe every microgreen on the plate, this isn’t your spot. 
But if you want a ribeye cooked right, shrimp you actually have to cut with a knife, cheese 
bread you can’t stop eating, and service that still feels personal — then this is the steakhouse 
for you.

A Toast to North Woods Inn - So here’s my toast:

• To Rheana, for getting the service balance right.

• To Christine, for keeping “table touching” alive.

• To Dorothy, for making the bar a place you want to linger.

• To Ronson, who may be the mayor of The Boat, but whose presence is part of the North Woods story too.

• And even to Vice Mayor Eric Chan — because skipping out here means skipping the cheese bread, and that’s a mistake.

North Woods Inn is big, it’s loud, it’s unapologetically old-fashioned, and yes — you’ll leave 
smelling like garlic bread. But that’s the charm. If you’ve been here before, you already 
know. And if you haven’t? Now you do. Cheers to that. 

7247 Rosemead Blvd cross Huntington Dr. San Gabriel and in Covina, check out the website 
for additional details www.clearmansrestaurants.com

Peter A. Dills

https://podlink/1116885432


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